Thursday, 1 November 2012

Azerbaijan - The Baku Bucket List

05/10

Arriving at Baku station we said our goodbyes to the volley ball team and our cabin mates. Finn was awaiting a message from our Baku couch surfer Tyson but hadn’t had any luck so we ventured off to a classy shopping centre to find some free McDonalds Wifi. With no response from Tyson we booked a night in the only hostel in Baku – Caspian Hostel and walked there through an amazing swarm of traffic jams and every possible high end fashion store. It was certainly not what we had expected from this city. At the hostel we met Tymek a Polish guy who had hitched hiked all the way from Poland on a $15 a day budget attempting to reach Australia. He spoke Russian and was also trying to get the boat across to Kazakhstan so we exchanged details. On our walk to the hostel we saw heaps of posters advertising the U17 Womens Soccer World Cup and the quarter finals were tonight, what a treaty! After freshening up we hit up some local gutab for lunch and then braved the metro system to get to the soccer stadium some 15km from the city centre. Surprisingly the metro was super quick, train every 3 minutes, 40cents per ride and they had a myki like swipe card. This left us both bemused about how Baku’s train system could be so superior to Melbourne’s. Arriving at our metro stop and in some ghetto region of Baku we got some directions from a old man which paid off and found the stadium! On account of being foreigners our tickets were free and we found our seats. Every little jizz raz kid from the surrounding ghetto seemed to be seated around us screaming in my ears just for fun and largely not watching the quality game that was going on between Germany and Brazil. Seeing an empty section of the stadium with old people in it we asked a security guard if we could sit there and thankfully we could. In our new and improved seats we now attracted the attention of other locals, two volunteers called Nino and Shela. They were super stoked to talk to novelty Australians and practice their English. They offered to take us around the city during our stay in Baku and show us the famous Miniature Book Museum.  At the close of the first Quarter Final German 1 Brazil 0 . During the break between games we headed outside for a couple of beers as for some stupid reason they didn’t sever beers in a Muslim country at a U17 Womens Soccer game.. Outrageous! Finding an al fresco bar we ordered two of Azerbijans finest drop, Xirdalan. It tasted like shit and we were unsure if the keg lines had been washed out properly. On ordering the next round we found out that no that was not the case, it just tastes like shit. For the next QF Ghana 1 Japan 0.



Finn received a call from Tyson at the soccer and we arranged to meet him in the city, he said he would be the guy with the beard. Naturally we were both stoked to meet another beard brother! When we got there he didn’t have a beard, just some stubble. But that was ok as he was a cool guy. Tequila bar was our first point of call and met a bunch of Tyson’s expatriate mates. One of them was Tim, a some what celebrity in Baku from his film clip Baku State of Mind which was a parody of New York State of mind which went viral on YouTube, so much that they were in competition for the Azeri entry into the 2012 EuroVision song contest http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4-U6TGX1T4. Speaking of celebrities Tim informed us that Rihanna was playing at Crystal Hall the tomorrow night, which Finn and I immediately agreed would be something that we could not miss!  After some much better beers (Efes) it was late and we hit up a doner and went back to the hostel and dreamt of Rihanna.

06/10

After our night in Caspian Hostel, we organised with Tyson to move to his place today- just whenever we got around to packing our stuff and getting out after a pretty late one at Tequila Bar. But by 11 am after skyping mum we were out the door and off in a taxi to Statistika with the aid of Tyson’s directions. After successfully finding his apartment and dumping our stuff, we decided our first job for the day should be to find some tickets to see Rihanna. Given that it was a weekend, Tyson had the day off and was kind enough to take us to take us- two questionably looking Australian males- to the small ticket booth in the middle of Baku to buy Rihanna tickets. What a nice guy! After hearing that their existed 35 manat tickets we were keen to jump on them but as we arrived to the ticket office, the ticket lady told us their were only 125 manat tickets left. That was going to hurt our pockets so we decided we would go and get some lunch and mill over our decision. But it wasn’t long after we arrived at the Shamrock Irish Pub for a solid Baku Burger that we decided that #YOLO and seeing Rihanna in Baku was once in a lifetime. A couple of pints and a burger later we decided to head back to the ticket office and grab some tickets. But as we enquired to the availability of tickets she replied with the words ‘SOLD OUT!’. Left deflated we headed back to the apartment for a nap after a big few days.

Our nap time however was put to good use as we brainstormed some alternatives to acquiring tickets to catch the Barbadan Beauty in Baku. In the hope that the concept of scalping had reached Azerbaijan (but worst case we would get to see the Crystal Hall  Stadium lit up like we had seen on Eurovision), we headed down to the stadium precinct in the hope of acquiring a ticket. As we stood outside the  entrance we were soon approached by an old sleazy dude, a young kid and then a guy aged in his mid 20s who told us in his perfect English that his girlfriend could no longer come and he was not prepared to go by himself- what an idiot, its Rihanna! After starting at 400 manat we quickly bargained him down to cost price with our fingers crossed these were legit tickets. After being let in at the first gate by security we began the fairly decent walk to the actual stadium entrance with the thousands of other Azeris keen to find love in a hope less place. On the walk we felt horribly under dressed as all the Azeri women dressed like they were Princesses of China decked out in Diamonds not to be Disturbia’d by some Australian Rude Boy’s Living their Life. Like wise the men looked like they were ready to play some Russian Roulette, with Umbrella-ella-ella in hand in case the weather turned and they could provide some cover to their Only Girls in the World in the hope of some S&M a bit later under All of the Lights. As we passed the final security check, we took our seats and settled in for a night of entertainment. First up was Guletkin, an Azeri- American keen to display her vocal skills through some Avril Lavigne covers. After Guletkin, we were treated to DJ Magnum, a French dj who has made friends with Diddy, Kanye, HOVA and obviously Rihanna. Playing the top 20 in Dj form got the Azeri crowd going and they were now clearly ready for Rihanna but to boost the excitement levels a tad more, some traditional Azeri drummers dominated the stage. Now they were TRULY ready!


And #ohboy she did not disappoint! Playing all the hits across an hour and a half was what we had come to see. Delicious dance moves, solid singing and a curvaceous costume made for a great show. As we left the building, singing all the songs we had just heard, we headed back to the city centre to meet up with Tyson for a few beers to download what we had just witnessed and then grab a kebab to solve our hunger pains with the American Azeri Celebrity, Tim.

07/10

A late finish to the night before was not conducive to an early start today. But that was alright as we had agreed to meet up with 2 azeri girls that we had met at the quarter finals of the soccer- these girls were volunteering and like many azeri’s were inquisitive to our nationality and the reason we were in Baku. First stop on our tour of Baku was the miniature book museum, one of the many little quirks of Baku. From what we can gather it was set up by the wife of the former president who had a penchant for miniature books of all languages, all dimensions and all subjects. As we perused articles such as a Lithuanian Bible and a Japanese Dostoevsky under the guise of the Greek lady in charge of the museum we were soon writing in the guest book before heading to the next stop on our Baku tour- determined by us. The European Film Festival was in town so we thought it may be a good opportunity to get a dose of art in us after sport and music the previous few days. As we arrived at the cinemas though we were told today was sold out so that left us to walk the boulevard with the two girls in hope of finding something else to do. And it seemed that the girls thought that Little Venice may be this very thing- a slice of Venice in the middle of Baku, what on earth could this be? But as we walked past ancient olive trees and cactus gardens we soon arrived at Little Venice; a building surrounded by an oversized swimming pool on which motorised gondolas cruised, taking young and old Azeri’s on a cruise to experience Venice. Overawed by Little Venice we thought it was time to head home, but that wasn’t before quick walk through Lover’s Park which confirmed our need to abort the mission and roll back to Statistika.

As we arrived back at the apartment, we reminisced about all things Rihanna before deciding to do something about dinner. On the recommendation of Tyson we headed to the local doner and lahmacun house. Harros ordered a doner while I ordered a lahmacun, a kind of Turkish pizza topped with peppery mince meat, parsley and lemon- delicious. As we waited not only did we make conversation with the friendly owner but we also attempted to deduce the pecking order of the establishment; was the lahmacun chef above the doner man or was it the other way around? Really tackling the tough questions in Azerbaijan. Anyhow, as we headed back, Tyson had awoke from his slumber and was ready to chat about everything Azerbaijan, Azeri and Rihanna. Equipped with a bit more of an understanding of Azerbaijan ,we headed to bed ready to acquire some visas…yeaahhhh budddyyyy!!!

08/10

With the knowledge that the Uzbek embassy would open at 10 am, we bounced out the door and headed straight there in anticipation of being let in and submittinbg our application at 10 onn the dot. As we arrived, it seemed that we were not the first one there as we met Raphael the Frenchman, who likewise was there to get an Uzebek visa. But as we waited for 15 mins we were soon greeted by what we assumed was the Uzbek receptionist who informed us that the Consul was busy today with a special delegation and that we would not be granted his presence. Instead we would need to call back at 3pm to see if the consul was available then. So we headed back to the city centre via the 20 kopek (20c) bus, grabbed some Tandir bread and headed for the park to sit down and ponder our next move. So we amused ourselves until 3pm by walking the Baku city centre hitting up shops and doing errands. And then we took a seat to make the call- to see of the Consul was ready for us. But we were told to cll back in halfa. So we waited and then called. No, we had to call back in another halfa. No, we had to call back in halfa. We decided then that the next call would be the final call before we resigned ourselves ot not seeing the consulate that day. The next call was made and, no, they were not ready- call back in halfa. So we decided we would head back to the apartment and start on dinner which we decided would be crispy chicken fajitas with the chicken spice we had picked up in Istanbul. But as we got home, then jumped into our trackies on a reciprocal calling arrangement with Raphael he informed us that the Consul was ready to see us. So we jumped straight back into our jeans, grabbed a taxi, and fought our way through the Baku traffic to the Uzbek embassy where we then hit jogging pace to ensure we wouldn’t miss what we thought was a small window of opportunity to acquire a visa. But as we arrived, the security guard let us in through the large steel gates where we headed upo the stairs and were greeted by the consul. Passing him the paperwork, which we knew was all in order, he headed into his office. Then as he emerged he told us our application had been approved and would be ready to pick up tomorrow, after the payment through the International Bank of Azerbaijan had been completed. With a sense of accomplishment we headed back to the city centre to grab a beer with our main man Raphael. Returning to our first bar of Baku, the Tequila Bar, a bar favoured by Scottish Offshore Oil Rig Workers, we grabbed a few Efes and played some stick ball But as the three of us played we were then asked whether one of us would play this Azeri boiler, decked out in Adidas skins sitting at the bar chatting to some Scots. Once again Harro dobbed me in to play and it wasn’t long before I was sharked; a familiar story in the No Longer Anchored journey so far. But after being humiliated in front of whole bunch of middle aged Scots it was time to head hoem and grab some dinner- dinner that we thought we might’ve eaten earlier before embassy duties got in the way.

Citimart delivered on all our ingredients and we ended up with an awesome product, a product worth demolishing in front of a few episodes of the inbetweeners before bed to prepare for another day of embassy hopping!

09/10

Up early again and placing our embassy attire on (jeans and a LS) it was feeling like a real work week. First off to the bank to pay for our Uzbek visa and we became acquainted with the three stage payment system left behind from the Soviet era. This goes as follows;
  • See the lady at the desk tell her how much you want to pay and to who. She prints 4 bits of paper, signs and stamps them all and gets you to sign them
  • Go to the Kassa (payment window) and hand over the money plus the bits of paper. They stamp all the paper and hand them back
  • Go back to the original lady who again stamps everything and hands you a receipt
What a ridiculous and inefficient process!

Next was the Kazakhstan Embassy. This much easier than first thought; rocking up with our forms the guy said yep no problems, pay this money and collect your visa on Friday at 4pm. This worked perfectly for us as we will have both visas by Friday and hopefully be in Kazakhstan by the weekend!! Walking home we paid for the Kazakh visa at the bank and hit up Cinnabon for a scroll and coffee. Next we called the Uzbek embassy to tell them the money had been paid and she said to come over and drop the passports off and hopefully the consul would be back from his meeting. When we got there the consul was still not in and we just left our passports at the embassy to pick up the next day. As we walked away from the embassy the consul drove past us with his son. Hmmmm meeting we thought or just time to pick up your kid from school…

With nothing on that night we decided to see the first Semi Final of the world cup, France winning over Ghana and advancing to the Final against North Korea. Finlay correctly guessed the score of the Ghana France game and I owed him one beer, not much but it was one of the first novelty games I have lost. Having watched three matches of U17 soccer over the past couple of days we both concluded that this was the most girls we had seen cry inconsolably in one place ever; post final losses. For dinner Finn whipped up an artichoke, mozzarella, olive pasta bake special and then I introduced him to an episode of the Inbetweeners.

10/10

After some seriously hectic days walking across the city to embassies and banks we were over walking and wearing pants (trying to fit in with the locals who frown upon the wearing of shorts despite it being 35 degress) so we got up made some baked beans and eggs and proceeded to potter around. Washing clothes, helping out Tyson by cleaning the bathroom and kitchen and reading our books in between. After making a hole in last nights leftovers we finished our washing and our blogging and then headed to trusty cinnabon. If you don’t know what cinnanon is, the wiki says so http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinnabon. One of the single greatest things in baked good form is the cinnamon scroll and with a coffee it is extra special. 

Getting around them for the 4th time this week we headed home, smashed out some Treme before dinner time. As Tyson however returned from his somewhat tortuous adventures in Naxcivan, we met him at the local Wednesday night expat hangout in Baku- Adams Curries 14 manat buffet. After first planning to eat we decided that a doner for 1.50 manat may be better for the budget so we grabbed a beer. After finishing the first it wasn’t long before we were given the 2nd; then the 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th. As the clock ticked over to 1am and everyone thought that, being a school night, the night had already gone on long enough, we started the walk home with Tyson’s Scottish friend Rachael and picked up a couple of doners on the way home.

11/10

A little bit dusty from the night before we headed for trusty Cinnabon for breakfast. After eating here for the past 3 days the employees knew us and each time we entered they giggled at us… all of which was fine as we were now used to being looked and pointed at for being foreigners and having awesome beards. Next we picked up our Uzbek visa, tick! And went to the city centre to meet Laura – a friend of one of Tysons mates. She had come to Baku a couple of days ago to try and get a job with BP and we said we could show her around now being the locals that we were. While waiting for Laura we had one of the most completive games of paper, scissors, rock that I have played and coming off a recent loss to Finn I was determined to kick his ass. Womens tennis rules; best of three sets and first to 6 up by 2. At one set a piece Laura arrived and we had to tell her to wait as the 3rd set played out. My serve was hot and took him out 6-2 in the final. Taking Laura on a tour we showed her the famous statue in fountain square of the modern Azeri girl – tight jeans, a crop top showing midriff, sunglasses and an umbrella. You have to remember that Azerbaijan is a fairly strict Muslim country so this statue seems super strange. We took Laura to the park bulvar and found a museum which had a fairly average exhibition about sport and a more interesting exhibition on the history of Azerbaijan and its independence. This was basically fairly biased about how awesome a bloke Heyder Aliev was and how nasty Armenia is but educational none the less. Wanting to watch a movie we went to the local shopping centre however all the movies seemed to be in Russian so Laura went home and Finn and I found some ten pin bowling to play. Fairly fatigued we headed home for a 30 for 30 episode and cooked a yellow chicken curry for dinner. That night we got a text from Raphael saying that the boat for Kazakhstan should be leaving tomorrow. Knowing that we could only get our Kazakh visa at 4pm we went to sleep with fingers crossed that it would leave later than that.


12/10

In the hope that today would be the day that we get out of Baku, we packed our bags and readied ourselves for a boat journey that had at best, mixed reviews. To prepare ourselves we first visited citi mart at the bottom of our building to get supplies, especially because at worst we had heard boats take two weeks for what is a 45 minute flight!! Following this we headed to Baku’s best English language bookshop to replace our lost (and still lost and whereabouts: unknown) Central Asian Lonely Planet- our proverbial bible for this trip. Then it was on an ATM tour of Baku to withdraw a bunch of US dollars in anticipation for our sooner than expected adventures into Uzbekistan. The reason for US dollars in Uzbekistan will become evident later!

But after our all our errands were run the only thing left to do was, with bank receipts in hand, go to the Kazakh embassy to acquire our visa. Showing up half an hour early in the hope that we they would take us early, we were told that this was not possible and instead we would have to wait until 4pm. At 4 on the dot we rang the bell, were let inside and picked up our passports. Then it was a run back to Statistika to grab our bags and head to the ferry port. With directions to the ferry ticket office in hand, provided by nomadbikefamily.fr (check it out if you’ve got a chance- these guys are crazy) we jumped in a taxi and headed there asap.  As we got to the port the instructions exactly matched so our excitement grew. After trying to enter the port we were directed to the ticket office where the gentleman greeted us and then began explaining something in Russian- something about machina and then pointing back towards the city centre some 8 km away. But with our powers of deduction and limited Russian we thought this meant that the passenger ticket office may be somewhere up the road from where we just came. So as we walked up the road in search of a ticket office we had no luck. Harro headed back to the ticket office in hope of more luck with some more Russian but we were greeted with the same response-something about machine and then a point. So we thought we mustn’t have walked far enough up the road so we started the walk right back up the road to the main road in search of the ticket office. But with no luck. It was at this point, with no idea where the ticket office was and no ticket and hour and a half after Raphael told us to rush to the port that we conceded defeat- we had missed the boat!

This meant it was time to hail a taxi and head back to Tyson’s apartment. Dumping our stuff we decided we needed to work out where we went wrong. So browsing the various travel forums and nomad bike family again, we worked out that we had in fact gone to the same port as the bike family but this was for vehicles- trucks, buses, cars, motorbikes and occasionally bicycles- or things known as ‘machina’. The train cargo ferry that catered for solely pedestrians leaves from the new port, the port closest to town. WE HAD GONE TO THE WRONG PORT! Trying to see the funny side of the whole dilemma left us in need of a beer and a good feed.

We decided it would be nachos with all the trimmings and it probably took the title for best made meal of trip. Ridiculously good! As we sat down to eat, Tysons Azeri colleague, Elshad, rocked in to wash his clothes. With Tyson’s washing machine taking the form of an old soviet model, Elshad was used to waiting a while so we offered him some nachos and recounted our story from the afternoon. We then invited him to the soccer, the under 17 women’s world cup final being held the following night which he was excited about- not so much the soccer but more for seeing Shakira live and pregnant in concert. So we made a date and agreed to meet him tomorrow night to see chicks run around and chase a soccer ball. Then it was Treme before we put ourselves and our frustrations to bed.

13/10

This morning we needed to find the actual ticket office so with the alternate directions in hand we set out via Cinnabon of course. The directions were like a treasure map and were so well written that we found the infamous “Kassa” – a non descript white building with no windows, one door and the word Kassa written in red paint on the side. Jackpot! However the kassa lady was not there, so we decided to wait and see if she would come. While we waited a group of kids started playing soccer and soon motioned for us to join in, a classic game of kick the ball at the wall formed with the smallest kid as the goal keeper. We all took pot shots at him impressing all with our skills. Then one kid crossed the ball to Finlay. Finns eyes lit up and he jumped high like a gazelle into the air heading the ball into the goals. Landing down he was stoked at his athleticism but knew that something was amiss; his pants no longer had a crotch. In this enthusiasm he had ripped a gigantic problem up the inside of his thigh and his whole groin exposing his jocks! I was in hysterics however soon realised that this would be a mild issue given that we had 5km to get back home and being in a muslim country where wearing shorts gets you heaps of looks popping your junk out cant be the best idea. Luckily Finn dresses like a wigger and he pulled his oversized tshirt down forming some sort of dress and hobbled out to the main street and we found a taxi back home.

With a fresh pair of pants we set out to see the Heyder Alyev cultural centre before the U17 Final. Pretty much everything is named after Heyder in Baku because he is a boss. Anyway this is one of two structures in Baku is envisaged to put the city on the international map! The other one being the flame towers which were both designed by and Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid and you can see a short doco on how these were built http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oA2VNArmxE



The centre has some strange Sydney Opera house feel to it and although it wasn’t yet finished so we couldn’t go inside the centre has a library, concert hall and museum. Afterwards we rushed off to meet Elshad at the stadium for the final and finding our seats who were we sitting next to but Tim, Martin and Brad, Tyson’s expat mates. The game itself was a ripper after some traditional Azeri dancing to open it. France dominated the first half keeping the North Koreans in their naturally oppressed state and went 1 up. The second half the French played like whingy little French girls and the larger bodies of the North Korean’s started to muscle the French out. This may have been due to the fact that the NKs were not actually under 17 years old…. The end result was 1 – 1 and with no extra time it went straight to penalties. As the first few penalties were taken I noticed that the some 20,000 strong Azeri crowd were all booing the French penalty takers and cheering the NKs. Baffled I questioned Elshad why; he explained that the French Parliament was trying to pass a law that makes in illegal not to recognise the Turkish genocide of the Armenian people and since Azerbaijan are friends with Turkey and hate Armenia they hate the French (another humours Azerbaijan – Armenia story can be found here http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/sep/06/azeri-axe-murderer-caucasus). 


After five penalties were taken it was even and eventually the French keeper saved a NK shot for the French to win 7-6 in penalties and the NKs looked doomed for a life of forced labour camps. Shakira who everyone was waiting for finally appeared shook her stuff however we were behind her and the speakers at the back of the stadium didn’t work so you couldn’t really hear her; but that didn’t stop Finn from dancing like a prepubescent teenage girl. To celebrate we all headed off to a bar and drink the night away with even more peace corps peoples who were in the city for the weekend and shifting hard. After a few pints there was not much going so we decided to head home after a pretty successful day!


14/10

Stoked after a largely awesome day yesterday I decided it was time to practice my Russian and call the ferry ticket lady. However I was maybe a bit too ahead of myself and I couldn’t really understand her. So we had to find someone who was fluent in Russian, which shouldn’t be hard give most Azeris’ speak Russian. So I thought that since we were well known down at Cinnabon we could ask them to do us a favour and call. Cinnabon is attached to Schlotzkys (another American chain) and a very attractive Russian looking Azeri girl who worked for Schlotzkys was able to help us out. She called the ferry lady and but with no luck; no ferry today, call back tomorrow. So we asked the Schlotzkys’ girl if she could call for us everyday and she was happy to, Win! With this knowledge we knew that we could just relax for the rest of the day so we chilled out, Skyped home and watched some Treme. 

15/10

A new day meant the possibility of a new boat..but was this going to be the case? Our first port of call was the hot Azeri at Schlotzky’s which also meant more Cinnabon- at this point it was fair to say we were addicted. So as Harro went and handed her the phone while I ordered Harro was told that there would be no ferry today but there would probably be one tomorrow-that meant that if it wasn’t tomorrow it would most definitely the next day which wasn’t such a bad result. However, our fingers were crossed that the ferry would come tomorrow and we could get deep into Central Asia asap.

Equipped with this valuable information regarding the ferry’s departure soon our attention turned to the events for the day- this required some serious thought as we had ticked off most of our Baku List and hit up most of the tourist spots Baku had to offer. But we knew there must be more errands to run and more unique things to do in this city. Prioritsing our daily agenda we went off in search of some pants for me in an attempt to recoup my losses from the day before. After already sussing out Jack Jones a couple of days earlier, the Baku store delivered with a decent pair of dark Chinos that had the structural integrity to hopefully see out the trip. Then it was off in search of a haircut for the NLA crew - Harro was after a Malceski while I was after something more conservative knowing that this could be fraught with danger. After perusing the streets we knew well on the route we took daily from Statistika to Fountain Square, down a small alley we found a barber shop with a barber who looked fresh out of jail in his white coat and assortment of tough stickers. I was happy that Harro took to the chair first, and as I sat patiently browsing the various male haircut pictures on a poster on the wall, finding a picture to point to when it came to my turn, I soon looked up to see Nick Malceski standing tall in the Azeri capital. Not only however did Harros have a ripper haricut he had also had the beard wash, ear clean and hot towel on the face- all for 10 manat or 10 bucks. I was up next and I was confident that I would end up with the picture I had pointed to. After the barber had done his best work with his scissors with which he had amazing control, I too got the beard wash, ear clean and hot towel. Then it was onto Phase 3, the styling phase. I was treated to a David Beckham slick back with turquoise gel and a bit of hairspray to top it off. An all round success- Malceski and Beckham were on the streets of Baku!



Feeling clean and no longer dishevelled we decided we would heed Elshad’s advice and head to the Fire Mountain. The trip to the fire mountain required us to get the metro then a public bus from the metro station to the end of the line. This sounded easy enough and it was. We arrived at the mountain, paid our entrance fee then checked the fire. As the name suggests it was literally a fire in/on a mountain. Pretty small but cool enough to check out while we were in and around Baku. But probably more interesting than the fire mountain itself were the oil wells scattered throughout the residential suburbs of the city. Not only were they scattered through the suburbs but suburbs and satellite towns were sometimes divided in half by huge chunks of land devoted to drilling oil- this confirmed that Azerbaijan was an oil driven economy.


 After catching the mountain we headed back into the city centre and had organised to grab traditional Azeri dinner with Tim, the famous Azeri American. The restaurant of choice was Firunze which had a great reputation amongst all the expats as a place serving awesome Azeri food at a reasonable price. Over a beer we discussed all things Baku, Azerbaijan, work and study before our plov, dolma and salad emerged. Demolishing it quickly we soon were in need of another drink and Tequila Bar was again the bar of choice- stick ball was the main draw card. We settled in over a pint and couple of games of stick ball before Tim said his goodbyes and headed home. It was then left to us to play a few more games of stick ball and make some new friends- friends in the form of Scottish offshore oil rig workers working in Baku with BP. Our friend of the night was Kevin who after introducing himself and buying us a pint began to explain in detail, using the pool table blackboard, the lucrativeness of the ‘deal of the century’ that BP signed with the Azeri government to drill for oil in the Caspian Sea. The deal essentially gave the Azeri Government 80% of the oil revenue that BP sold ie a butt load of money. A lesson that explained everything about the oil wealth floating around this city. It was then time to roll on home expecting that the next day would be the day that we sail across the Caspian.

16/10

Our morning ritual continued today as we got up, got ready and packed our bags hoping that an Aktau ferry would leave today. Then as we were ready we headed down the elevator and risking life, crossed the road to Cinnabon in search of our hot Russian speaking Azeri bird. As we opened the door there she was in her lime green polo and black visor awaiting our arrival. As Harro headed over with the burner, I ordered and greeted the Cinnabon employees that served us so well the past couple of days. As I sat down I watched intently for the look on both Harros face and on the face of the hot Russan for some good news. And there it was..a smile! The lady on the end of the line told us that tickets for the boat leaving today would be available from 1pm. So we downed our coffees and our Cinnabon Classics© and headed down the street to grab supplies for the journey- fruit, tandir bread, nutella and baked beans. Then we headed upstairs disrupting the work of Tyson’s cleaning ladies (which he told us exactly not to do), grabbed our packs and hailed a taxi to head down to the port. This time there was to be no mistake- we were going to be at the ticket office an hour early with money and passports in. As 1 o’clock rolled around, the Russian ticket lady appeared just as she had said and invited us inside to get 2 tickets on today’s boat which she said would leave at 3pm. With tickets in hand we walked down the port road, to the waiting shelter where we met Ilias, a Turkmen studying in Russia, his friend and a bunch of old ladies. They had all been there, in the shelter, for a couple of nights waiting for the Baku- Turkmenabat ferry to arrive and then depart. With this information we acknowledged that in fact we had a good deal with our Aktau boat. After an hour in the shelter it was time to board and this meant navigating the very relaxed and casual Azeri passport control and customs (the most scary was the small pet lobster in a 2L coke bottle which the office eagerly showed off)- in stark contrast to the passport control and customs that confronted us on entry. But as we walked up the gangplank we handed our passport and tickets to some guy on deck before we took a seat in the Salon and waited to be shown to our rooms. To pass the time we checked out the boats facilities which included several levels of outside decks and A TABLE TENNIS TABLE! We knew this was going to get a workout!  Soon we were shown to our room, a 4 bed room for the 2 of us, and then the bathroom before it was free time and we could do what we pleased. A few games of table tennis were had before we were introduced to, what it seemed were the only other passengers on the boat- 5 azeri guys ranging in age from 18 to 50 going to Aktau on holiday/to build a school/to run drugs. Then it was time to depart- 3 hours late- but depart all the same. We were on our way to Central Asia. Shat was about to get real! 

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